Praslin and La Digue, Seychelle Islands

Well, I think we've truly found a piece of paradise here in the Seychelle islands! Wow – stunning blue and turquoise waters, white sugary sandy beaches, green lush hillsides, and quiet lifestyle. We arrived in Praislin early this morning and tendered ashore with a few friends. We hired a taxi driver who took us across the island to the most beautiful beach. Only 8,000 people live here – one of only five of the 200 Seychelle Islands that is inhabited. The languages are Creole, French and English. There's a single lane, hilly road that winds itself along the coast past coconut and vanilla plantations and cute simple (yet super expensive) resorts. The island government won't allow foreigners to own land nor build homes, so the integrity of the island remains simple and quaint. We then visited another spectacular beach known as Cote D'or and had the chance to walk along – although no time for a swim here.

We returned to the island jetty and boarded a ferry boat over to La Digue, a neighboring island. It was only a 15 minute ride over – and wow – another “pinch yourself” destination. The island of 3,000 people has no cars. Cobblestone streets only have bicycle riders and wagons pulled by bulls. The main square had the bank, post office, general store and souvenir stand – that's it! We stopped for lunch near the tiny jetty of fishing boats overlooking the bright blue waters. After renting bicycles, we rode a little over a mile along the quiet streets into plantation grounds, past rows of coconut trees. On the grounds we came across a holding area of giant (and I mean giant) tortoises. They were so tame that you could feed them by hand and pet their heads. When standing they were probably two feet tall – amazing. Further on we came across the most stunning and beautiful beach called L'Anse Source D'argent. The sandy path took us around enormous granite boulders and rock formations. They were smooth, obscure shapes perched one on another. Here we swam and snorkeled for a couple of hours, before riding our bikes back to the tender. On our way back we had to slow down and follow a funeral procession, with mourners riding their bikes behind the casket.

That night we sailed to Mahe, Seychelles, and we'll go ashore tomorrow. A local dance troupe boarded the ship to perform native (Creole) dances for the passengers.

Day at sea and Pirate drill

We're on our way to the Seychelle Islands and will arrive in 3 days. Today the ship prepared itself, and us, against the risk of a pirate attack. We did the requisite drill - where all the passengers assembled in the lower reception area to await further instruction. Barbed wire, water canons and cameras surrounded the lower decks, with certain sections cordened off. A scary thought, but hopefully the crew knows what they are doing and will get us there safe and sound! Of course, all the passengers are making light of it! Yikes!

Male and Kudo Bandas, Maldives

The Maldives consist of hundreds of islands, all atols surrounded in turquoise blue
- just stunning. As you may know, there's talk that the islands are sinking with the rise of the world's oceans. We arrived into Male - an island of some 100,000 people all crammed into an island that only takes a half hour to walk across. It's "sea to sea" buildings, people, bikes and cars. Stephen was feeling a bit under the weather today, so I tendered ashore for a quick walk around the island. Visited the fish market with the day's catch all laid out on the stone floor for merchants to sell. (Appeared to be only men out on this Islamic island - I guess the women were at home...). Passed through a vege market as well. Narrow streets with barely enough room to pass. We tendered back to the ship and sailed to a secluded and remote island an hour away. The sail there was amazing - passing huge circular atols so incredibly blue in color. We tendered out to the island and spent the afternoon there snorkeling and swimming in the warm waters. Felt like "Giligan's Island" or a scene from Survivor! Really beautiful and could see why it's such an attractive spot for honeymooners to visit.

Colombo & Kandy, Sri Lanka

We arrived in Sri Lanka with much anticipation and excitement - when Stephen was just ten he had a penpal from the island and had sent him a small mask. We still have that mask. Also, Adam & Sera were here five years ago to help with tsunami relief and we were anxious to see it for ourselves. Again hard to believe that 48,000 people in Sri Lanka lost their lives in such a horrific disaster.
We took the road to Kandy - a 60 mile trip that took us over four hours to travel. It was a horrendous drive - dodging oncoming cars, trucks, buses, and trishaws - not to mention people criss crossing the streets without even looking! The countryside was amazing - filled with shops selling pineapples, crafts, cashews and daily goods - busy busy.
We stopped first at the Temple that housed Buddha's tooth - a relic of great importance. It was a magical place filled with worshippers and families bringing offerings. Monks were out as well chanting and playing instruments.
We overnighted in Kandy - a beautiful city high in the lush mountains. Our hotel was first class - imbedded into the side of the mountain overlooking the lakes below. Our dinner was a Sri Lankan delicacy and we were entertained by a cultural show of dancers and firewalkers. (Stephen had originally booked this night away from the ship just in case Miriam was sick of being on a ship, and/or terribly sea sick - but luckily neither is true).
The next morning we headed to an elephant orphanage - definitely a "can't believe I'm here" experience! There were hundreds of elephants in their natural setting - and we were able to get close to them eating, drinking, bathing and throwing dirt on their backs. They even paraded them up the road right where we were walking. We spend a few hours there and was just incredible to watch them at play. (This would never be allowed in America - where you could get that close and not be absolutely terrified!).
We headed back to Colombo and were given a city tour. A very busy busy chaotic city - with some remnants of it's British past. It was a delight to see the school children all dressed in their crisp white uniforms - how did they look so cool when we were sooooo hot and sticky?!
Our sail out was beautiful - amid the harbor and busy port. We'll be a day at sea again before our next stop, the Maldives.

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is Thailand's largest island - 30 miles long and 10 miles across. A popular vacation spot for people from around the world, we were anxious to see it for ourselves. We negotiated a taxi ride around the island for four of us, for four hours, at a super rate (or so we thought!). We zoomed around the windy streets past loads of cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops. Our first stop was a pier on the southern tip of the island, where many small boats take folks out to yet smaller outlying islands and secluded beaches. It was such a picturesque stop. We then drove to a view point, and worship site surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of elephants made out of wood, porcelain, pewter, or whatever you could imagine. The view down to the beach below was gorgeous. At Ko Man Beach we could see the impact the tourists have made - a town not resembling Thailand at all anymore - just loads of shops, hotels, etc. The beach itself was stunning though, and we stopped to cool off and take it all in. We had to be back on board by 1:30 pm and we've now set sail for Sri Lanka. As we sailed out, we could see the bay where the Tsunami had come in and resulted in so much death and devastation. Hard to believe it could have happened in such a tranquil setting.
It will be nice to have a few days at sea after six days of touring! Time to relax, read and digest everything we've seen. We're crossing the Andaman Sea, and so far the water has been incredibly smooth.

Penang, Malaysia

Our last stop in Malaysia took us to the Island of Penang. We were greeted on arrival by colorfully dressed entertainers, as we were in most ports. Today each of us received New Years bags of a shirt and souvenirs. With a population of 1.6 million people, Penang is connected to the mainland via a 5 mile long bridge (with a newer one under construction farther south from Georgetown, the capital – it will be 15 miles long at completion). We hopped into a taxi and the driver took us first to the vernacular tram – an hour journey up the side of the mountain. (Our young driver told us he was married to his wife, who he didn't know prior to their wedding. The groom at the wedding didn't show and he was asked if he would be the groom to save her the embarrassment!) The vernacular was jam packed because of the Chinese New Year – filled with families, young and old. The trip up was half an hour, with a wait half way up for the continuation of the trip. We were so hot (and crammed), we decided to just cross over the track and take the train back down the mountain again. Pretty spectacular view. Our driver also told us the main industries were now an Intel and Dell plant on the other side of the island and an Apple plant across the bridge. Our next stop was the 150 year old temple of Kek Lok Si, the Monastery of Supreme Bliss. The giant Buddhist goddess towered over us, and we had another wonderful view of the city below. After lunch we ventured out again with a tour of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion. It was the former opulent and ornate home of a Chinese businessman some 100 years ago. (Although, a couple of Chinese girls wanted their picture taken with us, and we later found out they were descendants of the rich owner!). From there we wandered through Little India to China town. There were massive street festivities celebrating CNW- as people poured in and out of a temple with lit incense sticks, torches and lots of smoke. Large cauldrons of fire and smoke sticks provided an ethereal mystical event. The 100 plus temps finally had us finish our full day back at the port nearby - exhausted!

Port Kelang (Kuala Lumpur) Malaysia

We sailed in early this morning and boarded a shuttle bus (just over an hour) into the city. Kuala Lumpur is the capital of Malaya and a large modern bustling city. It's made up of mostly Malay people and Islam is the major religion. Other groups include Chinese, Indians and Indonesians and it truly looked like a kaleidescope of peoples and cultures. We were dropped off at a mega mall and walked over to the Petronas Towers, the world's largest twin towers and pride of the city. These were quite impressive with the walkway between the buildings from which visitors can get a great view of the city. Unfortunately when we arrived it had already sold out for the day! Only 1,000 tickets are given per day and we would have had to be there by 7 am to be in line – shame! We made our way over the the Central Market, a busy place to see traditional arts and crafts. Chinatown surrounded the market, where again it was crazy with people buying for the upcoming new year. The bus station nearby was also insane with travelers heading out of the city for the holiday! A few shopkeepers had warned us about pick- pocketers and people who might snatch my purse or camera from passing motorcycles, but we had absolutely no problem, thank goodness. Just happy, smiley, friendly people!

Singapore Day 2

“Amazing Singapore” is the tourism office description. Our second day here leaves us in awe, that they have it figured out. This tiny city state gained independence from Malaysia 30 years ago and rewrote the rules on building a people based city. Ultra clean, virtually no crime and a pristine subway system that weave the old with the new. We returned to old Chinatown where the frenzy of thick crowds frantically are around us. Everyone is buying gifts of chocolate, flowers and delicacies to accompany their holiday visiting. The traditional streets were highly decorated in red, yellow and florals for the New Year. We wandered into an enormously ornate temple, where Buddhist monks were chanting and clanging their bells. We are told that there is box to drop coins in for the church down the street. This is either a symbol of a community supporting each other or givers trying to cover their bases.

Then entering another world we caught the 7 minute monorail over to Sentosa; a giant man-made island in it's final completion stages. Sentosa is a fantasy wrapped spectacular botanical garden with an observation tower with a view that brings it all together- a cityscape out of the future, hundreds of cargo ships out in the bay readying to unload, and views out beyond the city itself. Opening in a few days is the Universal Studios park, Hard Rock Hotel, casino and beautiful man made pocket beaches. We get a sense that this little island will become a major destination for Asians. The Night Safari is our last adventure of the day. The Zoo has taken it's thinking into fast forward by creating separate natural habitats. People movers and hiking takes us into dense rain forests, jungles and plains. We “secretly” view animals in their nocturnal natural environment; many within feet of us. A wow adventure of elephants, zebras, tigers and hundreds of animals not realizing we were there.

On our return at midnight, there is another Asian gambling ship next to Discovery, awaiting a morning departure on a three day cruise. Despite the giant dragon painted on the side, I recognize it as the Royal Caribbean Song of Norway, we sailed on in the 70's. Interesting to see what happens to old ships.

Our third and last day in Singapore now has us thinking we're locals. We walk the shops and people watch. It's amazing that smaller foreign stores are also here; Max Brenner Chocolate (Israel), Sensa, Aldo and Bata (Canada). The internet cafe/general store on the docks is now our second home.

Sunny Singapore

Arrived early into port. Singapore is what we had expected - modern, clean, beautiful landscaped parks and high modern buildings and shopping centers. We took the subway across town and began in China Town. Since the New Year is around the corner, the streets were filled with flowers, candy, red lanterns and colorful decorations. You could sense a panic in the air to get everything that was needed for the holiday. We then took the "hop on, hop off" bus system around town, past the botanical gardens, into Little India. It felt like we had arrived in India! the smells, the people, the shops were really authentic. We wandered thru the streets again onto Orchard Street - again filled with modern shops. Into a department store to watch demonstrations of kitchen gadgets, and a sampling of Asian foods. From there thru a flea market to Waterloo Street. It was so great to see a Hindu Temple, a Chinese Shrine, Catholic Churches and the synagogue all within a few blocks. We managed to get through tight security to go inside the Jewish Center - a magnificent building with apartments, kosher store, restaurant, synagogue and children's playschool. We decided to have a kosher dinner there which was delicious. From there we walked over to the Raffles Hotel and saw the famous Long Bar! A full night and we're exhausted!

Bandar Seri Bangawan, Brunei

An amazingly modern city with big highways, beautiful homes, and majestic gold domed mosques, office towers, and modern buildings. Oil finds which lasts only another 20 years fuels the country. The Sultan is a generous man who makes sure his 400,000 people share in the rewards of the oil revenue. In 1991, they celebrated the billionth barrel of crude oil-you do the number$. That means no taxes, free healthcare and higher education, free land to build a home and then financing to cover construction.
On arrival, we hired a small motorboat and went to the water village. Five thousand houses on the water house 30,000 people. Large homes, schools and fire stations are all on the water. The boat owner took us to his house. With 16 family members, 8-14 children in each family are common. We drank tea with them and gave us a tour of their rather opulent home. Wide screen TV's, beautiful furniture etc. We continued on up river into a small mangrove swamp tributary and sighted probiscus large nose monkeys in the jungle.
Later in the day we were resting at a food court in town and a couple sitting next to us arrived with lunch for us. Taking us to their large home, we got a better understanding of middle class Brunei. Four of their six children welcomed us. Each has their own computer and the dad has six cars ranging from a Beetle to a Mercedes. They then insisted on taking us on a several hour tour that including the Royal Mosque, Sultan's Palace (drive-by), large American style mall and then to the beach and then back to our ship. The teenage daughters who spoke perfect english joined us for the drive. These hospitable people gave a real sense of this oil rich sultanate where everyone has it all. We left them as good friends; hopefully to see them again.

Kota Kinabalu, Borneo

Our sail into the second stop on this large island was beautiful. KK is an inlet surrounded by a bay with the majestic Mt. Kinabalu on the horizon. The town appeared well developed, with a beautiful highway, manicured lawns and new development everywhere. Local Chinese entrepreneurs are the engine that is building the economy based on palm oil production and the return of higher valued rubber. Our tour drove us through town and into the Filipino craft market near the fishing boat landing on the shoreline. We visited an opulent mosque with giant gold domes. While the majority of the population is Christian, it appeared that mosques were definitely more dominant. We ate at the top of the largest (government) building and then headed out of town to a tribal village on the outskirts of town. The village was built by the tribes descendants to portray the daily lives of the various Borneo tribal people and headhunter origins! As we climbed between longhouses, we glimpsed into their daily lives. Some of us tried blowpipe shooting. Miriam gathered ingredients and stuffed a bamboo stick, which after cooking in a fire, we shared. Too spicy and way too much ginger but an afternoon wake-up in the sticky 95 degree plus heat. Our shipboard lectures on each destination ranging from history, the people today and destination highlights have been great preparation for each landing.

Sandakan, Borneo

We land on the northeast coast of Borneo, passing the poor stilt over water villages as we dock. Our first destination is the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center; only one of three in the world. Devastated by the vast cutting of palm trees for palm oil export which have eliminated their habitat, many injured and orphaned orangutans are evacuated to this 650 acre virgin jungle site. They are prepared for a return to the jungle elsewhere. We walk on slat wood boardwalks over the jungle swamp floor to where the animals congregate for feeding. Perhaps a hundred or more, many clinging to babies, swing from vines and alight near us. Later, we continue a 45 minute drive passing palm plantations to seek out the proboscis monkey. The paved road becomes a dirt jungle road that leads us to Labuk Bay Sanctuary. Here these unusual large monkeys gather for a banana lunch. The males have hilarious large droopy noses, reddish flat top hair and pot bellies; while females have smaller upturned noses. Our ship leaves early as the entrance to port is over a sand bar. The high tide allows for a surprisingly minimal 2 foot clearance below the hull of the ship. Just enough to get us out to open waters. An end to a spectacular jungle experience in wild Borneo.

Manila

Thought we were on for a long time, until we met passengers some from Elder Hostel(now known as Exploritas) who are on the ship for 4 months!
Lecturers have been excellent with lots of destination detail and some talks on history, art, etc. We're already up to date on Borneo and Brunei, our next stops.

Today we are in Manila (first of two days.). The ship has been very kind to their 175 Filipino crew on board. It is the first visit of the ship and each crew member is allowed to host 5 guests with tours of the ship including a meal. In total 600 guests will be visiting! The crew was crazy with anticipation. The morning as we hopped off, girlfriends, wives, children etc were gathering to board. We talked to a grandmother who was standing with two little kids; soon to visit their parents who are both working on board.

We took a horse drawn carriage for one hour around the old enclosed city. Much damage from WW2 still and a lot of recognition of what the Americans (General MacArthur) did to recapture the country from the Japanese. Dropped off in the market area and walked through 50+ plus blocks of packed street activity, the palace (although they wouldn't let us in) China town, etc. No tourists at all! Very busy dusty bustling smokey city with horse drawn buggies, bicycle taxis, jeepneys, etc. People are incredibly nice, smiley and friendly and English is spoken everywhere.

We stopped at a mobile sidewalk school and feeding center for street kids run by the Virlanie Foundation (virlanie.org). Each day they care for about 70 little kids picking them up from a nearby shopping center where they spend nights on the sidewalk. So darling. Gave them the equivalent of $8, for which they were grateful; apparently half of what is needed to feed the 70 kids their main meal daily.